![]() ![]() Make sure to cover entirely both sides of the screen, any holes you leave will allow ink to get through. That's fine, but you'll probably want to add more to the bottom side, still, to get a good coat. Note that after doing the top side, you'll probably have quite a bit of emulsion already pushed through the screen on the bottom side. It is best if it will fit going both the long way and the short way, but as long as it at least fits the long way, you should be ok. You'll want to make sure, therefore, that your squeegee fits inside the frame on the bottom side. Once the top side is coated, flip it over and repeat on the bottom. Use smooth, even, and fairly light strokes of the squeegee to apply a smooth and even layer. Lay the screen flat, right side up, and pour a thin line of emulsion along one edge of the top side of your screen. You could avoid this if you did the top first, and then the bottom, since the frame itself holds the top up off the surface, but you'll also want to dry the screen with the bottom side down, so you'll need to support it then, anyway. Thumb tacks stuck into the corners of your frame work well for this. Since you'll be applying the emulsion to both sides, you will need some temporary way of supporting the frame when it is side-down. The "bottom" is the side where the screen is flush with the wood frame, and is placed side-down when printing. To clarify in this section, the "top" of the screen is the side that sits embedded in the wooden frame, and is the side from which you apply screen-printing ink. You can do this with either a "scoop coater" or a standard squeegee. The way we do this is to spread a thin layer of the emulsion over both sides of our screen. That's perfect for creating a stencil: we'll "toughen" up parts of the stencil that we want to keep solid, and then wash away the rest.Īpplying the Emulsion Essentially, photo emulsion becomes "tougher" when exposed to light, making it more difficult to remove from surfaces. Photo emulsion is thick liquid substance which reacts to light. One of the often preferred methods for making silk screening stencils is the photo emulsion technique. For consistency, use the same water volume every time.Frame Requirements Note: Water volume is a recommendation and can be modified to the user’s liking. Mix / Stir the emulsion until the mixed solution / diazo is fully dispersed (color should be even / uniform) Recommended Water Amounts: SBQ Emulsions 25 ml / 25cc / 25g of water per quart (additional water may be required to fully dissolve diazo) 100ml / 100cc / 100g of water per gallon size Diazo / Dualcure Emulsions 100ml / 100cc / 100g of water per quart 400ml / 400cc/ 400g of water per gallon. Pour the mixed solution / diazo in the emulsion.ħ. Mix / Stir until diazo is fully dissolved.Ħ. ![]() Gently empty the diazo out of the pack into the container.ĥ. ![]() Open packet gently to prevent diazo from escaping.Ĥ. Pour 100ml / 100cc / 100g into a container (plastic pails, cups, etc.). Mixing In A Separate Container (Recommended)ġ. Mix / Stir the emulsion until the mixed solution / diazo is fully dispersed (color should be even / uniform). Pour additional water (50ml / 50cc / 50g) into the bag to rinse out any residual diazo left in bag. Pour the mixed solution / diazo into the emulsion.Ĩ. Hold the bag closed tightly and gently agitate solution using a side to side motion to dissolve completely.ħ. Fold top edge of the bag over twice to seal.Ħ. Open pack gently to prevent diazo from escaping.ĥ. Tear or cut the top of the bag (easier to cut).ģ. Place bag in vertical position and tap or shake lightly to gather the diazo at the bottom of the bag.Ģ. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |